"Some cats just do not like to be held!" There was never a truer statement made concerning variations in feline personality. Many people have the mistaken idea that all cats act the same and that behavior must conform to some preconceived notion of cat behavior they had as a child. If they remember a cuddly cat when they were growing up, then all cats behave that way....Don't they?
The other situation is a household with young children who see the cat as another stuffed animal to be hugged and squeezed, even if against its wishes. This can be the origin of cat bites directed towards children's faces. How is this problem approached?

• Recognize the signs which cats use to communicate. a) A low pitched rumble is a clear sign of displeasure. b) Twitching of the ears and flicking of the tail communicates a need to be freed. c) Squirm ming and struggling is the cat's way of saying, enough is enough.
• Recognize the tolerance level each cat has. Some cats will allow endless stroking. Others can only stand a few seconds. Look for the signs as indicated above and respect them. TEACH YOUR CHILDREN THE SAME!
• Do not pursue the cat for affection. Let it come to you.
• If your cat is sitting on your lap and displays these signs, you are not restraining it and the aggression continues, stand up and let it drop to the floor. If it persists, walk away and leave it alone in the room. You are telling the cat that interaction will not continue on these terms.
• Increase interactive play with the cat using a variety of cat toys. Become both directly involved in play using toys and also supply self play type toys which many pet stores have.
• Reward calm behavior with attention or food treats but grant the attention for an abbreviated period. Discontinue petting BEFORE the signs of agitation begin. KEEP HIM ALWAYS LOOKING FOR MORE.

Feline Fear Based Aggression

Cats do show fear. There are cats who love to be in the center of a room of people. However, equally as common are cats who cannot tolerate this much activity. They need to disappear. Whether this a genetic trait or due to insufficient socialization is open to debate. There is plenty of evidence linking insufficient handling of kittens between 3-9 weeks of age resulting in "skittish" cats. Aggression in these cats occurs when they have little choice but to use aggression to stop a threat (real or perceived). The key is understanding this a avoiding situations in which people pursue cats who are fearful. Dilated eyes, tucked tail, hair standing up and retreating is a cat who does not want to be there. Give him space!!
It is very difficult to socialize an adult cat. Gradually exposing the cat to the offending fear inducing stimulus while rewarding him for calm behavior is how it is done. The key is using a very palatable reward and only use it when the cat is disinterested in the fear inducing threat. DO NOT USE PUNISHMENT IN ANY SHAPE OR FORM! This will result in a heightening of the aggression. 

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Feline Play Aggression

The key here is understanding what is happening. Typically, this is occurring in a young kitten, in a single cat household in which the owner leads a busy lifestyle. This means that the cat is understimulated. It has minimal outlets for its natural need to play. The result is a cat who stalks the owner jumping out at them when the owner is least expecting it. Or, running across a room at the owner and jumping at his face. These attacks can seem quite vicious and must be dealt with appropriately before they turn serious. Often the owner is an elderly person who does not recognize the need for play and is also at high risk for infection and injury from a bite.
You must provide the opportunities. This can be in the form of individual play or owner interactive play. There are many toys which can be purchased or made which will help you encourage your cat to play. "Cat Dancer" type toys (fishing pole type apparatus with various toys attached) make wonderful devices to entice your cat to play. cardboard boxes and paper bags make great exploration areas which most kittens cannot resist. Playing catch or chase with toy balls or aluminum foil rolled into a ball works great. There are "Cat Trax" toys which is a ring with a moveable toy inside which the cat tries to get at. I did a similar thing for my cat by cutting holes in a shoe box and placed some kibble inside. Kept her busy for an hour! You are only limited by imagination. The key is to regularly (2-3, 15-20 minute sessions per day) interact with your cat to provide the stimulation he needs.
Be aware that not all people should have a kitten or solitary cat. If your schedule is such that you are not home much or are not able to play with your cat, think about a pair of adult cats or, get a stuffed one!  

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Feline Redirected Aggression

This involves aggression by a cat towards a person or another cat as a result of the inability of the attacker to get at another object of their aggression. A perfect example of this is the cat at the patio door watching a stray cat. The indoor cat is obviously worked up and wants desperately to get at the intruder but can't. Frustration sets. At this moment the cat, who is totally fixated, becomes surprised by the sudden intrusion of the owner or house mate. The flood of aggression meant for the stray is redirected towards this readily available outlet. The attack can be very vicious and the association can last many weeks or months after the original episode.
Treatment is similar to what was described for fear based aggression. That is, use a pleasurable activity (such as feeding) and gradually associate it with the object of the aggression. If it is the pet owner, have he/she gradually decrease the distance between themselves and the cat (while eating) over a period of several days or weeks. You must back off if at any time the cat shows interest or focus on you while it is eating. It may also be critical to prevent the cat from having continued visual access to any possible inciting cause of aggression. For example, keep shades or blinds closed over windows and doors looking out over the yard where strays may roam.  

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Intercat Aggression

Intercat aggression is more a description of what is happening rather than a diagnosis. There are many reasons why cats interact aggressively. They may include:

• Fear of the Other Cat in the Household
• Dominance Struggle
• Play Aggression
• Territoriality

Treatment of intercat aggression really depends on which of these situations exists in the household. For example:

Fear of another cat may be dealt with by simply confining the cats away from one another when unsupervised. Use of a bell on the aggressor's collar may help signal the victim when the aggressor is approaching. Interrupting inappropriate aggression with spray bottle of water and vinegar. Rewarding with treats or play any observation of calm, relaxed behavior when the cats are in each other's presence. Use of multiple litter boxes distributed throughout the house may give the victim more options to eliminate without increased risk of facing off with the aggressor.

A couple notes here. 1)The rule of thumb for litter boxes is 1 box per cat in the household plus one additional. These should be spread out throughout the house on multiple levels to increase three dimensional space for the cats. Do not group boxes in one area. You are essentially just creating one LARGE litter box t=rather than multiple ones. 2)In a situation in which one cat is stalking another, often the use of a covered box is not indicated. The aggressor many times will wait outside the box and pounce on the unsuspecting victim as he/she emerges from the covered box. For this reason, it is advised to use only open litter boxes in this circumstance.

Dominance Struggles are dealt with by again providing an appropriate litter box environment. Using aversive sprays and rewarding appropriate behavior as noted above. Use of food desensitization trials in which the cats are fed at a great enough distance apart then gradually (a few inches per day) the food bowls are brought closer together. A word of caution here. You should begin with each cat in a carrier and bring the carriers closer together. Then repeat the process but now with the doors of the carriers open. Then, finally, with the cats out of the carriers. It is wise here to fit both cats with harnesses and leashes during the steps in which they can gain access to one another. Holding the leashes or securing them to an immovable object will help prevent injury. In order to increase the motivation of the food, only feed the cats during the trials and feed something very palatable (ex. canned diets). Keep cats separated when unsupervised. If all else fails, placement of one of the cats may be indicated.

Play Aggression is merely the normal "ruff and tumble" activity that occurs with kittens. Kittens must learn predatory and hunting behavior and the best learn this through pseudo hunting activities with each other. To the uninitiated, this can seem to be the real thing with hissing, spitting and pouncing. The key is that the posture is different than real fighting. Ears are up and relaxed, tails are swishing in a non-chalant manner, and the kittens readily re-engage their activity with each other rather than run off and hide. There is rarely a "stand offish" display by one kitten with the other leaving the scene. Do not interfere unless there is a history of injury occurring.

Territoriality is merely the establishing of defined, protected territories within a living space. This is seen in the outdoors by males establishing "harems" of females in various areas and regularly visiting these sites to protect them against intruding males. In the home environment, the resourses guarded include food, elimination areas and access to attention from the humans in the household. Again, attention to litter box placement is critical, appropriate punishment and reward, and belling the aggressor are all helpful strategies. In severe cases, placement of one of the cats may be necessary. 

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Anxiety Related Disorders

Separation Anxiety

Separation Anxiety

Primarily a problem afflicting dogs*, separation anxiety is a condition which is characterized by an intolerance on the part of the dog to being left alone. This can actually being left alone (as when owners are away from home) or if the dog perceives it is alone (for example, when the owner is in the shower). The resulting panic attack displays itself in the form of a)destructive behavior (particularly directed towards exit points from the home), b)excessive salivation (drooling), c)elimination of stool and/or urine when left alone, d)excessive vocalization (howling) when alone, e)intolerance to being away from owners when they are at home. This is displayed by "shadowing" of the preferred owner and not wishing to be left outside alone for very long.

Treatment of Separation Anxiety involves modification of the dog's behavior and environmental changes which both function to decrease the dog's dependence on the owner(s).Some techniques include:

• Decreasing excitement directed toward the dog at departure and arrival. This is meant to prevent the dog from getting overly excited when the owners leave or arrive and thereby reduce the negative effect of the departure on the dog. Ignore the dog for 30 minutes at these times.
• Immediately before departure give the dog a toy which it only has available to him at this time. The toy should be interesting enough to capture the dog's attention and decrease his focus on the departure. A good choice is a Kong Toy (a rubber, hollowed out chew toy) stuffed with something like peanut butter or Cheez Wiz.
• Graduated Departure Exercises. This entails first teaching and rewarding the dog for a relaxed sit-stay near the area where you leave the house from. Then you gradually increase the distance from the dog, while rewarding him for maintaining a calm, relaxed posture. You increase the distance until you reach the door then open the door increasing amounts. At this point you briefly (a few seconds) leave the house and return (again rewarding appropriate behavior). gradually increase the time you are gone up to about 30 minutes. At this point you should be able to accomplish much longer departures since the anxiety usually manifests itself in the first 30 minutes of departure.
• Unique Odor During SHORT Departures. ONLY during short departures you should utilize some type of unique spray which imparts an odor the dog will associate with short departures. In a sense you are telling the dog when he smells this odor, "I will only be gone a few minutes". You must never do this during normal (extended) departures or the association to the dog will now be invalid and unreliable.
• Attention Seeking Responses.Dogs develop an array of behaviors meant to attain attention from their owners. In dogs with Separation Anxiety, they use these techniques to solidify the strong attachment they have developed towards their owner. When the owner consistently responds to these demands they are reinforcing the dog's reliance on them thus making departure more of a significant, traumatic event. Your goal is to not respond to these demands. When the dog approaches for unsolicited attention you need to ignore and walk away from him. When he is relaxed and non-attentive you can initiate the contact and use a treat reward to reinforce the desired behavior. Be forewarned. Your dog will accelerate this attention seeking behavior at first because it has ALWAYS worked in the past.Don't worry. Within a few days he will get the message of what the new rules are and will quickly learn what behaviors are required to receive a reward.
• Frequently medication is needed to "buy time" to allow the steps outlined above to work. Your veterinarian can discuss these with you if he/she is well versed in behavior medicine.

* The overall consensus is that Separation Anxiety does occur in cats, though not as frequently. The primary sign in cats with Separation Anxiety is the tendency to eliminate on the bed of the primary attachment person in the household and it occurs when the cat is alone, or perceives to be alone. 

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Canine Elimination Disorders

Canine Elimination Disorders can occur for a variety of reasons:

• Housebreaking Failure - Inconsistency with training and poor methods utilized. It is key to not allow puppies to have access to any surface but the surface in which the owner desires the dog to eliminate on. This is accomplished by confinement (cage or pen) when the dog is alone and close supervision when the owners are with the dog. In addition, the dog should be taken on a leash to the designated elimination area and praised when elimination occurs. Also, routinely take the dog out to eliminate after each meal.
• Marking Behavior - Dogs (especially intact male and female dogs) will often use urine to mark territory by depositing urine on mostly vertical surfaces. this can be a territorial response or a response to aggressive displays from other pets in the household. Appropriate housebreaking steps, neutering and, sometimes, medication are needed to reduce the incidence.
• Separation Anxiety - Dogs may urinate when left alone as a symptom of anxiety related to being separated from its owner. Other signs such as destructive behavior, vocalizing and drooling can also be present. See section on Separation Anxiety on this site for further information.

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Feline Elimination Disorders 

Feline Elimination Disorders fall into two broad categories:

Inappropriate Elimination
Marking Behavior

Inappropriate Elimination

Inappropriate Elimination refers to depositing urine and/or feces outside of the litter box for reasons other than for marking purposes. There are 4 primary reasons for inappropriate elimination in cats:

• Surface Preference - Development of alternate surface material preferred over the provided litter material. Kittens develop these preferences at several weeks of age and these preferences can be very difficult to change. Preference for soil, sand, granular vs. clumping litters, paper, etc. can occur. Alternate surface preferences can also occur secondary to aversion (discussed later). If a cat turns away from its current litter choice for some reason (pain, frightening event surrounding the litter box, poor cleaning habits, etc.) it can develop other preferences to replace the original one. Sometimes providing a choice among several litter types at one time (a litter "buffet") may provide a clue as to the type of litter the cat prefers.
• Location Preference - In addition to finding a preferable type of surface material, cats can also develop a location to eliminate which it finds more acceptable than the provided one. Cats who are timid may rather eliminate in a secluded area such as a closet while other personality types could care less. Offering multiple litter boxes in various locations may help in determining a preferred location.
• Surface Aversion - Certain surface materials may be found to be objectionable to certain cats. A dirty litter box, pain associated with a urinary tract infection or after declaw surgery and the use of liners or a covered litter box may cause a cat to retreat from consistent use of its box. Better cleaning habits, trying a variety of litters and various types of boxes may allow you to find a more suitable combination.
• Location Aversion - Litters boxes placed in areas in which the cat may associate with a negative event may cause the cat to avoid that location. The hallmark for diagnosis is to take the same litter box and place it in a different area. If this is a location problem, the cat will begin to use the box in the new spot. Litter boxes in a high traffic area or near a load piece of machinery such as a furnace may cause an aversion wit the development of a secondary location preference.

Other treatment suggestions for treating an elimination problem includes cleaning the urine spots with an odor eliminator, covering the spots with furniture, changing the function of the area by turning it into a feeding or resting location. 

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Fears and Phobias

There are a variety of fearful stimuli affecting dogs and cats. They are divided into three main areas:

Fear of People
Fear of Other Animals
Fear of Noises

Development of fearful responses in animals can occur either by inheritance or through negative experiences, especially in puppies and kittens. Fearful, timid and shy behavior is a very inherited trait such that the breeding of a shy animal results in a high likelihood that the offspring will also have timid tendencies. For this reason, breeders need to consider the behavior and personality of a breeding bitch or stud at least as much as they consider their conformation. Early, positive life experiences, however, can be very effective at reducing the fearful tendencies in many pets. A conscious effort to expose an individual within the first 3 months of life to as many varied experiences as possible can help greatly in reducing that animal's later reactivity to novel situations. This is why puppy kindergarten classes begun at 8-10 weeks of age can be extremely beneficial in heightening social skills.

In treating all types of fearful behaviors, the approach is very similar.

• Manage the Environment - Control the dog's access to the fear provoking stimulus so that the behavior does not continue to occur uncontrollably and thereby reinforce itself. This can mean, for the dog who is fearful of people entering the home, isolate it when people come into the home. This is not a permanent treatment but merely a way to allow you to control the reaction.
• Manage the Dog - Begin a series of exercises to gain control over the dog's reactions. These are commonly called counter conditioning exercises in which the dog is taught a behavior (relaxed sit-stay) which is inconsistent with the problem behavior. This is taught in a calm setting.
• Identify Fear Producing Stimulus - Identify exactly what is causing the fear. Is it a certain type of person? A type of animal? A typical situation in which it occurs? Fireworks? Thunderstorms? Common, sudden household noises?
• Establish a Gradient for the Stimulus - This means to break the stimulus into small parts. If your dog is afraid of large men. We will need to begin by introducing small, familiar, girls and work our way up to large, unfamiliar men. In this way we can gradually begin to desensitize the animal to the stimulus.
• Desensitization - Gradually expose the pet to the stimulus as defined by the gradient you set up. By rewarding calm behavior while you gradually introduce each level of the stimulus, you are teaching the animal a different response to the stimulus. The mistake often made here is that the owners commonly go too fast with this procedure and overwhelm the animal. This process can take several months to be effective.
• Medication - With overly fearful animals, we often need to consider use of an anti-anxiety medication to help the animal to focus and be more receptive to the training. While in the past this meant sedating the animal, this no longer is the case in that there are now many alternative medications which address the animals underlying anxiety instead of tranquillizing.

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Canine Compulsive Disorders

• Most people have heard of Obsessive Compulsive Disorders (OCD) in humans. These are behaviors which are ritualistic in nature and are performed in a compulsory manner by individuals. Examples include repetitive hand washing, hair pulling and counting. In animals we can see similar behaviors. However, these behaviors are commonly referred to as Compulsive Disorders. The term Obsessive in people refer to the inability to stop certain thought patterns from occurring. Because we cannot verify that these thought patterns are occurring in animals, we simply use the term Compulsive.
  Compulsive behaviors are thought to have some physiologic basis involving some type of neurotransmitter disturbance. Levels of these chemicals, which transmit nerve impulses in the brain across junctions between neurons, are believed to be deficient. As a result, most of the time various medications are utilized to alter these chemicals.
  In addition, there is thought that some of these behaviors serve as attention seeking disorders. That is, they are performed by the animal because it results in increased attention from the pet owner involved. We see this when the behavior first is displayed and the pet owner's reaction is one of amusement. Later, when discipline takes the place of laughter, it is the punishment that the pet learns to view as the reinforcement to continue the behavior.
  Treatment of most compulsive behaviors is based on not responding to the behavior by leaving the pet alone or, if possible, disrupting the behavior and substituting a competing behavior which is then positively reinforced. In addition, anti-depressant type drugs, such as Clomipramine (Anafranil or Clomicalm) or Fluoxetine (Prozac) are often utilized.
  The descriptions of the following examples of Compulsive Disorders are meant to make you aware of the possible displays of these "stereotypical (repetitive) behaviors: 

Flank Sucking

Shadow/Light Chasing

Fly Snapping

• Tail Chasing
  
  Commonly seen in the Bull Terrier, Tail Chasing can occur in any breed. It can frequently begin with an injury to the tail resulting in the dog paying increased attention to the appendage. Owners then can reluctantly reinforce the behavior by talking soothingly, punishing or over all paying increasing attention to the behavior.
  
  
• Flank Sucking
  
  Common in Dobermans, this behavior involves the dog reaching around, grabbing the flank fold (fold of skin on the dog's side extending from the rear leg and groin area) in its mouth and sucking. The behavior can be done to the exclusion of other normal behaviors such as eating or play activity.
  
  
• Shadow/Light Chasing
  
  This is often seen as dogs or cats who chase shadows or lights across the walls of homes. Some behaviorists feel this is an extension of an animals inate need to be a predator. The behavior is again often reinforced and the pet performs the activity preferentially.
  
  
• Fly Snapping
  
  Seen as the animal snapping at imaginary objects around its head.

Feline Compulsive Disorders

Excessive Grooming

Wool Chewing

• Excessive Grooming
  
  Can be seen in many species but most commonly occurs in cats. Characterized by a loss of fur in areas of the body in which the animal has been observed to be frequently grooming (via licking). The most common areas involved are the lower part of the abdomen (belly), inside portion of rear legs and the extremities. It is critical that medical causes of hair loss (allergies, infections, external parasites) be excluded prior to making a diagnosis of Psychogenic Alopecia (Excessive Grooming).
  
  
• Wool Chewing
  
  Seen in cats. Involves the compulsive chewing and/or sucking of fabric (including wool). Can be extensive enough to result in holes being produced in the material.